A word on preservatives in organic skincare

One of the significant challenges in the natural and organic skincare products industry today is the controversy over the use of preservatives. As I went through the process of learning product formulation the truth about the need for preservatives became more and more apparent. The challenge of educating my purist oriented customers also became more and more apparent.  Here I address just a few of the truths and untruths regarding the NEED for preservatives in skincare products, the misinformation often espoused 
about the topic by well-meaning people and a few of the newer preservatives on the market today that seek to replace parabens. 

Just take a moment to think about what would occur if you mixed berries, fruit juice and natural extracts for use as an at home mask treatment, and then, you left it out on your kitchen counter for a week or two. It would not be very long before there was mold growing in it. In reality, organic/natural skincare products are not that different. Typically they are formulated in a water, herbal infusion or natural juice base, all of which contain large amounts of natural sugars…a favorite medium in which bacteria and mold thrive.

Now you may ask …aren’t there “natural” preservatives? The truth is yes and no. There are some natural substances that offer limited antibacterial protection. Essential Oils of Thyme, Oregano and Tea Tree as well as Vitamin E, Rosemary and Neem are protective against some strains of bacteria and rancidity. Unfortunately though, on their own, they don’t protect from all forms of bacteria and fungi that can occur from sunlight, heat and contact exposure to pathogens that regularly occur in cosmetic use. Additionally they require very high concentrations that can cause significant skin irritation.

As much as we would like to hope and natural products purists would like to believe, unfortunately, the reality is that a 100% natural broad spectrum preservative that provides adequate protection against microbes, yeast, bacteria and fungi is simply not available today. I wish it was, as I would be using it extensively. Before parabens became the subject of controversy they are today, they were the most commonly used preservative as they offer significant protection at very low percentages while at the same time being affordable. The huge outcry from consumers about parabens has sent the industry scurrying to find alternatives that meet the need to protect against contamination while at the same time satisfying the growing consumer demand and trend towards “natural” ingredients. As a result a few ingredients have emerged as the most commonly used in natural and organic product formulations, Phenoxyethanol, Ethyl Hexyl Glycerin, and Japanese Honey Suckle Extract (P-hydroxy benzoic acid)  

Phenoxyethanol -  An organic chemical compoundformed of eight carbon, ten hydrogen and two oxygen atoms. It is an alkyl ether, meaning its carbon and hydrogen atoms are arranged into a chain and connected to the oxygen. It is an effective and very stable antimicrobial which has been approved by the UK Soil Association for use as a preservative in organic beauty products and is non formaldehyde forming.In scientific studies it has been shown to be non-sensitizing to the skin and eyes at levels of 2.2% or lower. Typically it is used in skincare formulations at 1% or less.

Ethyl Hexyl Glycerin -  A glyceryl ester, essentially a glycerin alcohol derived from grains and plants. It provides rapid destruction of micro-organisms and broad spectrum antibacterial protection by reducing the interfacial tension on the cellular walls of the micro-organism. As well, it has proven preservative-enhancing ability and is often used in combination with other preservatives instead of parabens for broad spectrum protection against gram negative bacteria.

Japanese Honey Suckle Extract - Contains a potent phytochemical that occurs in many plants, fruits and barks, p-hydroxy benzoic acid (phba). Scientists likely began looking at phba as a preservative in cosmetics because, in nature this chemical naturally protects against bacterial and microbial intrusion. Phba is the chemical that formed the precursor for parabens which were created by synthetically altering the naturally occurring chemical. Although it provides some bacterial protection, the naturally occurring phba is not an adequate broad spectrum preservative on its own.  The solution generated by scientists was to  chemically alter naturally occurring Phba by attaching a methyl free-radical which became the basis for the commonly used methyl, ethyl, and propyl parabens. With the introduction of the new alternatives to parabens, phenoxyethanol and ethyl hexyl glycerin, Japanese Honeysuckle Extract has re-emerged as an effective microbial when combined with other preservatives.